Phydura All Natural Herbicide


1 quart
2.5 gallon
Out of Stock

Shipping fee is included (within the contiguous US).  Phydura™ is an OMRI listed, non-selective herbicide made from natural, biodegradable ingredients (clove oil, lactic acid, potassium oleate, vinegar, and water) for herbaceous broadleaf and grass weeds including: Garlic Mustard, Burdock, Dandelion, Clover, Crabgrass, Queen Anne's Lace, Pigweed, Velvet Leaf, Ragweed, Quack Grass, Leafy Spurge and more!

Kills annual weeds within hours; perennials may need 2 or more applications to kill the roots. Phydura™ is safe around (but not on) trees, shrubs and water.  Phydura™ is a non-selective contact weed killer; it will control anything it comes in contact with, but complete spray coverage is needed (enough to wet the plant, but not to the point of run-off). Phydura™ works best on actively growing plants in full sun and air temps above 70 degrees; the warmer, the better.

How much Phydura™ do I need? 

  • For young or small weeds, mix 1 part Phydura™ to 3 parts water (3:1 ratio). Spray entire plant.
    • For spray application of the diluted product, you would need 2 gallons per 1000 sq ft. (90 gallons/acre) So then, 0.5 gallons (64oz) of undiluted Phydura™ needed per 1000 sq ft.
    • 1 quart of product will make 4 quarts of spray. Likewise, 2.5 gallons of product will make 10 gallons of spray.
  • For larger or older weeds, mix 1 part Phydura™ to 2 parts water (2:1). Spray entire plant. 

  • For lawn grass, mix 1 part Phydura™ with 2 parts water (2:1 ratio). 
    • 1 quart of product will make 3 quarts of spray. Likewise, 2.5 gallons of product will make 7.5 gallons of spray.
    • NOTE: we do not recommend using Phydura to kill lawn grass to prepare for a native seeding.  Multiple sprayings make it impractical.

Although it is safe to enter a Phydura™ treated area when the spray has dried, we suggest waiting 24 hours before sowing seed or transplanting.

Keep the concentrate out of reach of children and pets as it can cause eye irritation. As with any spray treatment, wear safety glasses and gloves when applying.  Download the SDS (Safety Data Sheet).

Ingredients: Active = Citric Acid (32%), Clove Oil (8%), Malic Acid (10%)  Other =  Lactose, Oleic Acid and Water (50%).

9 Questions asked on Phydura All Natural Herbicide

Does Phydura kill the plants to the roots?
Hi Fred. No, but you will eventually starve the roots if you keep spraying the above ground growth. I wouldn't suggest it for extremely invasive woody and vine species like Buckthorn, Asian Bittersweet, Kudzu, Honeysuckle, etc. It's best on herbaceous plants.
Hi, how long can I use a jug of Phydura, does it loose its effect if stored for a longer time? Thanks!
Hi Sandra. If you avoid extremes of heat or cold, under normal conditions, Phydura will be good for 2 years minimum. If it has been sitting for even a short time, it's important to shake the container, and/or mix thoroughly before decanting. For the 2.5 gallon that weighs more, a person could just lay the jug flat on the ground and then roll it over several times. This is much easier than shaking it.
Does this product kill crabgrass?
Hi Diana. Yes, it is non-selective so it should kill the leaves of any plant it touches. Crabgrass has a pretty extensive root system, so you may need many applications to starve the roots.
Does it kill poison ivy?
Hi Jane. Yes, it can kill woody vines like Poison Ivy but it would require many applications. It would probably be easier to control by continuously cutting the vine at the base. (This is essentially how Phydura works on perennials: killing top growth to eventually starve the roots).
Has there been success killing Lesser Celandine?
Hi Denise, I’m sorry but we don’t have any personal experience with Phydura and Lesser Celandine. Generally speaking, Phydura works best on seedlings. If plants are mature, it can take multiple applications to be effective. Perennial species are difficult to control with Phydura as they will keep re-sprouting until you starve the root.
Does this product harm/kill insects?
Hi Anne, The primary active ingredient in Phydura is clove oil, which according to this publication by the Xerces Society, poses a low to medium risk to bees. We recommend using this herbicide during the early morning or at dusk when pollinator activity is low to minimize the chance of contact. Directly spraying an insect would probably kill it.
Is phydura safe to control weeds in a recent seeding area?
Hi Daniel. As long as no seeds have germinated yet, Phydura should be safe to apply to weed foliage following the product directions. That being said, spraying Phydura this late in the season may not be optimal; this non-selective herbicide is most effective when applied during a hot, sunny day. At least in the Upper Midwest, those are rare conditions this time of year. If the weeds are already dead or going dormant, the Phydura will not have a lasting effect into the spring season.
Is it safe for wildlife (mammals, birds, insects) passing by/grazing the sprayed area?
Hi John. The Phydura instructions state that "Children and pets may re-enter treated areas after the spray has dried." We suggest waiting at least 24 hours before sowing or transplanting in the area. The potent scent will typically deter most critters from wandering through and browsing that area for at least that period of time.
What would you say about the ph of citric acid (especially in such a high ratio), and it’s repeated application to the soil? I realize people like to “treat green” with vinegar, but it’s actually quite potent in terms of how profoundly basic it is. Doesn’t that alter soil ph?
Hello Nathan, it could potentially alter soil pH, but only temporarily. Our herbicide is meant to eradicate any unwanted species that may be in your planting area. This may create a temporary dead zone, which in some cases may not be a bad thing: if you are prepping a site, this may help. Some "green" ways to recoup your soil pH is to put campfire ashes or compost to bring it back to a more basic (alkaline) soil.


Growing your own plants from seed is the most economical way to add natives to your home. Before you get started, one of the most important things to know about the seeds of wild plants is that many have built-in dormancy mechanisms that prevent the seed from germinating. In nature, this prevents a population of plants from germinating all at once, before killing frosts, or in times of drought. To propagate native plants, a gardener must break this dormancy before seed will grow.

Each species is different, so be sure to check the GERMINATION CODE listed on the website, in the catalog, or on your seed packet. Then, follow the GERMINATION INSTRUCTIONS prior to planting. Some species don't need any pre-treatment to germinate, but some species have dormancy mechanisms that must be broken before the seed will germinate. Some dormancy can be broken in a few minutes, but some species take months or even years.

Seed dormancy can be broken artificially by prolonged refrigeration of damp seed in the process of cold/moist STRATIFICATION. A less complicated approach is to let nature handle the stratifying through a dormant seeding, sowing seeds on the surface of a weed-free site in late fall or winter. Tucked safely beneath the snow, seeds will be conditioned by weathering to make germination possible in subsequent growing seasons.

To learn more, read our BLOG: How to Germinate Native Seeds

Dormant Bare Root Plants

We dig plants when they are dormant from our outdoor beds and ship them April-May and October. Some species go dormant in the summer and we can ship them July/August. We are among the few still employing this production method, which is labor intensive but plant-friendly. They arrive to you dormant, with little to no top-growth (bare-root), packed in peat moss. They should be planted as soon as possible. Unlike greenhouse-grown plants, bare-root plants can be planted during cold weather or anytime the soil is not frozen. A root photo is included with each species to illustrate the optimal depth and orientation. Planting instructions/care are also included with each order.

Download: Installing Your Bare-Root Plants

Potted Plants

3-packs and trays of 32, 38, or 50 plants leave our Midwest greenhouses based on species readiness (being well-rooted for transit) and order date; Spring shipping is typically early May through June, and Fall shipping is mid-August through September. Potted 3-packs and trays of 38 plugs are started from seed in the winter so are typically 3-4 months old when they ship. Trays of 32/50 plugs are usually overwintered so are 1 year old. Plant tray cells are approximately 2” wide x 5” deep in the trays of 38 and 50, and 2.5" wide x 3.5" deep in the 3-packs and trays of 32; ideal for deep-rooted natives. Full-color tags and planting & care instructions are included with each order.

Download: Planting and Care of Potted Plants

*PLEASE NOTE: we are a mail order nursery and have no retail facilities, but you may pick up your order if prior arrangements are made. Pick up orders are subject to 7.375% MN Sales Tax.

Shipping & Handling Charges

TOOL SHED and BOOKS have the shipping fee included in the cost of the item. In other words, they SHIP FREE!

Shipping Season

SEED, TOOLS and BOOKS are sent year-round. Most orders ship within a day or two upon receipt.


We ship using USPS, UPS and Spee Dee.



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