Comments on: What are the Pros and Cons to a Fall vs. Spring Seeding? http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/how-to/pros-and-cons-to-fall-vs-spring-seedings/2009/09/ Sun, 05 Feb 2012 00:30:42 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 By: Becky http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/how-to/pros-and-cons-to-fall-vs-spring-seedings/2009/09/comment-page-1/#comment-1363 Becky Fri, 28 Oct 2011 19:20:45 +0000 http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/?p=92#comment-1363 HI Ryan. Sawdust from any kind of tree is fine. None that we know of would inhibit the germination of the native seeds. And really, any kind of filler that you could easily get your hands on is fine too. If sand is easiest, then that would work just as well as sawdust. The purpose of a filler is simply to help bulk up the seed for easier broadcasting. Seeding around these old oaks, I would assume the mulch is going to be pulled away and the native seed goes down on bare soil around these trees? Seed-soil contact is critical for germination the following spring. You also don't want mulch covering these winter-sown seeds so light cannot reach them and therefore they won't germinate. Don't till or disturb the soil in anyway prior to planting. The seed should really go down on bare, compact soil fall-winter. Broadcast the seed, lightly rake it in if you want (although not necessary), and walk away. Mow the first year, keeping it at 4-6 inches all year if you feel weeds will be an issue. The 2nd year (2013) you should be able to let the areas go. A savanna or woodland planting from seed will take 4-5 years to mature. Good luck and feel free to call/email anytime with questions. HI Ryan. Sawdust from any kind of tree is fine. None that we know of would inhibit the germination of the native seeds. And really, any kind of filler that you could easily get your hands on is fine too. If sand is easiest, then that would work just as well as sawdust. The purpose of a filler is simply to help bulk up the seed for easier broadcasting.
Seeding around these old oaks, I would assume the mulch is going to be pulled away and the native seed goes down on bare soil around these trees? Seed-soil contact is critical for germination the following spring. You also don’t want mulch covering these winter-sown seeds so light cannot reach them and therefore they won’t germinate.
Don’t till or disturb the soil in anyway prior to planting. The seed should really go down on bare, compact soil fall-winter. Broadcast the seed, lightly rake it in if you want (although not necessary), and walk away. Mow the first year, keeping it at 4-6 inches all year if you feel weeds will be an issue. The 2nd year (2013) you should be able to let the areas go. A savanna or woodland planting from seed will take 4-5 years to mature.
Good luck and feel free to call/email anytime with questions.

]]> By: Ryan http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/how-to/pros-and-cons-to-fall-vs-spring-seedings/2009/09/comment-page-1/#comment-1362 Ryan Fri, 28 Oct 2011 16:54:51 +0000 http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/?p=92#comment-1362 Hello, I work for a Park District in IL and this winter I plan to seed the mulch beds around our massive white and bur oaks with your woods edge mix. I noticed in one of your posts that you often mix seed with sawdust. Should I be doing that? Do you use any type of sawdust or is there a special kind? Also should I rake all of the leaves out of the mulch rings? Thanks- Ryan Hello,

I work for a Park District in IL and this winter I plan to seed the mulch beds around our massive white and bur oaks with your woods edge mix. I noticed in one of your posts that you often mix seed with sawdust. Should I be doing that? Do you use any type of sawdust or is there a special kind? Also should I rake all of the leaves out of the mulch rings?

Thanks- Ryan

]]> By: Becky http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/how-to/pros-and-cons-to-fall-vs-spring-seedings/2009/09/comment-page-1/#comment-1300 Becky Wed, 15 Jun 2011 14:19:10 +0000 http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/?p=92#comment-1300 HI Janae. Cover crops can often cause confusion. They are not necessary in all situations. Here's a summary of when you might want to use a cover crop: <a href="http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops/" rel="nofollow">http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops/</a> If you plan to put the cover crop down in Spring or Summer we would recommend Oats. We sell it but you could get it even cheaper at a local seed co-op (just make sure it is weed-free oats). <a href="http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-avena-sativa-oats/" rel="nofollow">http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-avena-sativa-oats/</a> Seeding rates with or without your native seed are on the website. If you plan to plant in the Fall, Winter Wheat or Re-Green is what we suggest: <a href="http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-triticum-aestivum-winter-wheat/?cat=293" rel="nofollow">http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-triticum-aestivum-winter-wheat</a> <a href="http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-regreen/?cat=293&from_search=" rel="nofollow">http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-regreen/</a> If you order a 500 sq ft - 1/8 acre seed mix from the website/catalog we include Re-green at no charge. I think most customers use it, but some choose not to. Hope this helps Janae. HI Janae. Cover crops can often cause confusion. They are not necessary in all situations. Here’s a summary of when you might want to use a cover crop:
http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops/
If you plan to put the cover crop down in Spring or Summer we would recommend Oats. We sell it but you could get it even cheaper at a local seed co-op (just make sure it is weed-free oats). http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-avena-sativa-oats/
Seeding rates with or without your native seed are on the website.
If you plan to plant in the Fall, Winter Wheat or Re-Green is what we suggest:
http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-triticum-aestivum-winter-wheat
http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-regreen/
If you order a 500 sq ft – 1/8 acre seed mix from the website/catalog we include Re-green at no charge. I think most customers use it, but some choose not to.

Hope this helps Janae.

]]> By: Janae Adams http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/how-to/pros-and-cons-to-fall-vs-spring-seedings/2009/09/comment-page-1/#comment-1299 Janae Adams Fri, 10 Jun 2011 04:58:38 +0000 http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/?p=92#comment-1299 I have been reading your helpful information about seeding and I am wondering what a good "cover crop" would be. I am still learning and not sure what to do as a cover crop for the first growing season. Thanks so much!! I have been reading your helpful information about seeding and I am wondering what a good “cover crop” would be. I am still learning and not sure what to do as a cover crop for the first growing season.
Thanks so much!!

]]> By: Becky http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/how-to/pros-and-cons-to-fall-vs-spring-seedings/2009/09/comment-page-1/#comment-1255 Becky Tue, 08 Feb 2011 21:10:40 +0000 http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/?p=92#comment-1255 Hi MJ. It's a good question - and one we get a lot. True, natives are very deep rooted, but these roots won't actively seek out your septic lines unless they are 'moisture seekers' like the Willow (Salix) species. Chances are you will have many inches or feet of backfill that will be gravel-like making the soil drier. Choose a seed mix for these drier conditions. The best article I have read on this topic was put out by the Univ of MN Extension: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg6986.html As you can see they recommend the drier prairie species - although they can be very deep rooted over time, they won't attack your septic lines because they are drought tolerant and are not seeking moisture. Depending on the sun exposure on your site, here are our suggestions of Prairie Moon seed mixes: http://www.prairiemoon.com/seed-mixes/septic-system/ Hi MJ. It’s a good question – and one we get a lot. True, natives are very deep rooted, but these roots won’t actively seek out your septic lines unless they are ‘moisture seekers’ like the Willow (Salix) species. Chances are you will have many inches or feet of backfill that will be gravel-like making the soil drier. Choose a seed mix for these drier conditions. The best article I have read on this topic was put out by the Univ of MN Extension: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg6986.html
As you can see they recommend the drier prairie species – although they can be very deep rooted over time, they won’t attack your septic lines because they are drought tolerant and are not seeking moisture.
Depending on the sun exposure on your site, here are our suggestions of Prairie Moon seed mixes:
http://www.prairiemoon.com/seed-mixes/septic-system/

]]> By: MJ Haen http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/how-to/pros-and-cons-to-fall-vs-spring-seedings/2009/09/comment-page-1/#comment-1254 MJ Haen Tue, 08 Feb 2011 19:31:00 +0000 http://www.prairiemoon.com/blog/?p=92#comment-1254 Can you plant wild flowers over a septic hill without the roots damaging any of the buried septic lines? Just moved to the farm and need to first round up the hill this spring and do something with it. Can you plant wild flowers over a septic hill without the roots damaging any of the buried septic lines? Just moved to the farm and need to first round up the hill this spring and do something with it.

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