What are the Pros and Cons to a Fall vs. Spring Seeding?
September 14, 2009 by Becky
Filed under Customer FAQ's, How and When to Plant or Collect Seed, How to Guides, Seasonal Reminders
Seeds can be planted in fall, spring or dead of winter. This chart lists the pros and cons of each season.
| TIME | ADVANTAGE | DISADVANTAGE |
| Fall (plant mid October until the ground freezes) | -Clay soils are easier to work in the fall than the spring -Higher forb/sedge germination in the first growing season -High moisture conditions at time of germination; less watering needed -Eliminates the need for cold moist stratification of seed |
-Early establishment of warm season grasses can be inhibited -Cool season weeds become competition for new seedlings in spring -Erosion prone sites need cover crop seeding which is earlier and separate from the native sowing |
| Frost (plant in early winter just before snowfall or directly on snow cover when there is little wind/no ice glaze) | -No raking or packing of site -Higher forb/sedge germination in the first growing season -High moisture conditions at time of germination; less watering needed -Eliminates the need for cold moist stratification of seed |
-Early establishment of warm season grasses can be inhibited -Cool season weeds become competition for new seedlings in spring -Erosion prone sites need cover crop seeding which is earlier and separate from the native sowing |
| Spring (plant in April until June) | -Cool season weeds can be eliminated before planting -On erosion prone sites a cover crop can be mixed and planted at the same time as the natives -Optimal for warm season grasses -More time to do thorough soil preparation and spring weed control |
-Clay soil is more difficult to work with -Need of additional early mowing mid-May to early June -More watering needed, especially if seed is cold moist stratified -1 year delay in germination for those forbs/sedges which require cold moist stratification |
Can you plant wild flowers over a septic hill without the roots damaging any of the buried septic lines? Just moved to the farm and need to first round up the hill this spring and do something with it.
Hi MJ. It’s a good question – and one we get a lot. True, natives are very deep rooted, but these roots won’t actively seek out your septic lines unless they are ‘moisture seekers’ like the Willow (Salix) species. Chances are you will have many inches or feet of backfill that will be gravel-like making the soil drier. Choose a seed mix for these drier conditions. The best article I have read on this topic was put out by the Univ of MN Extension: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg6986.html
As you can see they recommend the drier prairie species – although they can be very deep rooted over time, they won’t attack your septic lines because they are drought tolerant and are not seeking moisture.
Depending on the sun exposure on your site, here are our suggestions of Prairie Moon seed mixes:
http://www.prairiemoon.com/seed-mixes/septic-system/
I have been reading your helpful information about seeding and I am wondering what a good “cover crop” would be. I am still learning and not sure what to do as a cover crop for the first growing season.
Thanks so much!!
HI Janae. Cover crops can often cause confusion. They are not necessary in all situations. Here’s a summary of when you might want to use a cover crop:
http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops/
If you plan to put the cover crop down in Spring or Summer we would recommend Oats. We sell it but you could get it even cheaper at a local seed co-op (just make sure it is weed-free oats). http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-avena-sativa-oats/
Seeding rates with or without your native seed are on the website.
If you plan to plant in the Fall, Winter Wheat or Re-Green is what we suggest:
http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-triticum-aestivum-winter-wheat
http://www.prairiemoon.com/other-products/cover-crops-regreen/
If you order a 500 sq ft – 1/8 acre seed mix from the website/catalog we include Re-green at no charge. I think most customers use it, but some choose not to.
Hope this helps Janae.
Hello,
I work for a Park District in IL and this winter I plan to seed the mulch beds around our massive white and bur oaks with your woods edge mix. I noticed in one of your posts that you often mix seed with sawdust. Should I be doing that? Do you use any type of sawdust or is there a special kind? Also should I rake all of the leaves out of the mulch rings?
Thanks- Ryan
HI Ryan. Sawdust from any kind of tree is fine. None that we know of would inhibit the germination of the native seeds. And really, any kind of filler that you could easily get your hands on is fine too. If sand is easiest, then that would work just as well as sawdust. The purpose of a filler is simply to help bulk up the seed for easier broadcasting.
Seeding around these old oaks, I would assume the mulch is going to be pulled away and the native seed goes down on bare soil around these trees? Seed-soil contact is critical for germination the following spring. You also don’t want mulch covering these winter-sown seeds so light cannot reach them and therefore they won’t germinate.
Don’t till or disturb the soil in anyway prior to planting. The seed should really go down on bare, compact soil fall-winter. Broadcast the seed, lightly rake it in if you want (although not necessary), and walk away. Mow the first year, keeping it at 4-6 inches all year if you feel weeds will be an issue. The 2nd year (2013) you should be able to let the areas go. A savanna or woodland planting from seed will take 4-5 years to mature.
Good luck and feel free to call/email anytime with questions.